
There's more than St. James Church in Dingle to keep Other Voices coming back to it every year. Existing as the last main town in the big toe of the country before you hit the Atlantic, there's a escapism aspect to being here. Leisurely travellers could take the high road via the Connor Pass into the town and drive on elevated terrain with stunning views, roadside streams and waterfalls on roads that cars have to pull over to let each other pass. Taking that road to Dingle is a transporter, you really do feel like you've left it all behind when you come back down the other side.
Daffodil the dog on Slea Head.
When you are settled though, provided you have a car or some serious stamina for a bike, one of the best things to do in Dingle is to take the Slea Head drive which takes in scenic ocean coastline around the. A typical even brief sojourn around the peninsula could include a stop on a firm sandy rocky beach, an inclined trip to some mysterious beehive huts and vistas taking in rugged cliffs, steep hills and a passable road separated by a stream. Those who have a bit more time could take a trip out to the Blasket Islands, which was inhabited by Irish-speaking residents until 1953. A local once told us that if anyone ever robbed any shop out on the Slea Head drive, all the guards would have to do is set up camp at the roundabout in Dingle as all roads to Slea Head lead back to to the town. As does the music...
The last night in the St. James Church was broadcast online via The Guardian and so the recording zipped along at a brisk pace with Aidan Gillen introducing each of the four acts on the night. If you missed the stream, you will get to see the bands perform when the TV show airs but here's a rundown of what you missed.
Gavin James is a young singer-songwriter from Dublin who getting increasing traction and chatter about him in the UK music industry as well as locally. He's a traditional sort, his songs are easy on the ear but he has a gift of reaching those high notes in a breathy falsetto that is a bit stunning. Look out for his rendition of 'Have Yourself A Merry Little Christmas' which will be broadcast on RTE Two on Christmas Day.
If you were lulled into a calm or your superb dinner at Doyle's (chilli prawns and mussels if you're asking) was making you feel a bit sleepy, Palma Violets were here to wake you up. Signed to Rough Trade, this buzzing UK band were most impressive on the night, coming across like an exuberant jovial Libertines trying to recreate the most rock 'n' roll moments in The Clash discography. The bass player, Chilli Jesson, who was sharply suited and resembled Rufus Wainright was a particular joy to watch, thrashing himself around the stage with his instrument leading the charge. He coaxes the drummer up off his stool at the last, in a raptured moment, only for the drummer to let his sticks fall, perfectly in time on the cymbals from a height to end the song. Magic.
The Staves were a different proposition. The long-haired sisters Emily, Jessica, and Camilla Staveley-Taylor play like forgotten '70s children and have the folk-indebted sweetness that makes songs like 'Mexico', 'Tongue Behind My Teeth' and 'Eagle Song' float in the air. A special mention must be made for their a cappella song 'Wisely & Slow', which showcases their harmonies in the best possible way: unadorned and lush. Fitting for Other Voices.
Folk family The Unthanks showed us some Northern English culture in the form of traditional club dancing (like tap dancing), played songs from their Songs From The Shipyards soundtrack and indeed, covered Elvis Costello's elegaic 'Shipbuilding'. The highlight of the set was 'Here's The Tender Coming' which was accompanied by audience harmonies.
With the end came the last act of the night and we stayed in the north of England with the dulcet tones of Josephine. The Mancunian singer/songwriter was accompanied by an electric guitarist and piano player but it was her considerable voice, full of soul, vibrato and pop sensiblities that impressed the most. How fitting for a show called Other Voices. See you in Derry!